“Wine” region. Such epithet is used to describe those regions where grape is cultivated and wine is produced. Odessa region is just the wine producing province; a lot of grape varieties used for making fine wine are grown there. But only in Vylkove you can try wine “Novak”, Vylkove grape “Novak” is a God’s gift for Lipovans. And Lipovans do wonders from this grape, they make wine with gentle and delicate flavor. We bring to your notice a chapter from the book “Vylkove. The fish cuisine of Lipovans”, which describes grape cultivation and wine production peculiarities.
Vylkove wine “Novak”
To tell about Vylkove without mentioning unique Vylkove wine – is like talking about Georgia, without mentioning the Georgian shashlik. As in Gogol’s stories a rare bird reaches midstream of the Dnieper, so a rare guest of Vylkove city hasn’t tried the local wine.
Winery is a charitable deed. What was the first miracle described in the Gospel, that Christ did? He turned water into an excellent tap! Vylkove citizens believe that this sort of wine was “Novak” because grape “Novak” grows on water.
Vylkove culinary stereotype “to serve white wine to fish” doesn’t work because the local red wine “Novak” is perfect for fish dishes. Therefore, as impossible to imagine Lipovans without boat, so impossible is to imagine Vylkove Lipovan fish cuisine without a glass of good wine “Novak”. Lipovan fish cuisine includes not only tasty dishes, but also a special table setting, its location, cooking traditions and atmosphere of enjoying the meal. Without a bottle of “Novak” red wine, Vylkove table will resemble an elegant gentleman without a hat. As if everything in its place and in fine fashion, but something is missing. There is obviously a little something wanted.
What is that – Vylkove “Novak” and what peculiarities it has? Without going into details of wine art, let’s say that “Novak” is made from grape variety called “Noa” which belongs to fox grape group. Later the word “Noa” was transformed into “Novak”, an easier one for pronunciation. This is it. But this is a theory, and we are going to touch practice.
All plants in Vylkove are cultivated near the water, by the water, and even over the water. And grape is not the exception. Ranges of grape vines on Vylkove islands verge on the river corridors. Moreover, grape beds are separated almost every 10-15 meters by shallow channels that connect river corridors with Reed bed located behind the gardens. And usually over these “vegetable garden channels” the grape frames are constructed – special, usually wooden frames to support vine.
Moreover, the cultivated lands of Vylkove islands are situated exclusively in coastal areas. In delta they are located more or less high above the water-level that’s why are rarely flooded even during high water. Moreover, since such plots are paved of the Danube sludge, they are the most fertile.
In the second half of September, when grapes mature, Vylkove and surrounding island areas plunge into peculiar strawberry flavor. Yes, Vylkove mature grape “Novak” smells exactly like strawberry. A good Vylkove wine has also just a suspicion of strawberry. If you accidentally spill it on your hands, they will have a savour of berry. And a smell of your hands will be stronger than of wine. But “Novak” must be real – from the good and not stingy winemaker.
There are as many varieties of “Novak” in Vylkove as winemakers. And the wine here is made in almost every yard. In addition, each time the same master can get different wine. It does not matter that it was made from the same grape according to the same technology – the range of colors, taste and alcoholic content of Vylkove wines will be very wide. As in any business, there is a group of recognized “elite” winemakers in Vylkove. They make a top-notch “Novak” almost every year. Despite the double price of this wine, it is sold, first of all, for special events, and as a kind of local present.
And another important feature of the grape “Novak”: if you bed it away from the water, in the classic upland grape lands, it will never produce a good vintage, the vine will grow weak, the leaves turn yellow early and berries loose their strawberry flavor. That’s why real “Novak” can be cultivated only in the Danube delta, on the well-watered, humus, muddy soils of the Danube. And fertilizers are completely useless: the Danube sludge used for paving the grape beds and constantly replenished from the nearby channels contains everything you need for efficient farming and vine growing.
In addition, “Novak” is resistant to almost all traditional diseases of the vine, so it is never treated with chemicals. By its specific nature “Novak” was given a secondary name “swamplands wine” that in English version sounds like «wetland wine». People know it under such name on the European “cocktail receptions” following international conferences and meetings. And experienced tourists say with a laugh: “We know your wine: it drinks well, has a wonderful flavor, but after it the head works, and the legs don’t want to go”. Therefore, a glass of good “Novak” with some local fish dish will be a perfect fit.
And the Bible says that drinking wine fits to drink, but to drink in is not allowed …
This is the famous Vylkove “Novak”! Cheers!
Chapter from the book “Vylkove. Fish cuisine of Lipovans”
